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A fairy tale in Malaga
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In case you don't know yet, I have a huge passion for Andalusia. This has to do with many different aspects. Of course because of the nice weather, the beautiful nature, the beautiful cities and villages, the delicious food and last but not least the people. The inhabitants of Andalusia understand the art of passionate enjoyment like no other. They are perfectly capable of being present in the HERE and NOW and enjoying it to the fullest. And always with real passion.
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Semana Santa
Where I really see that passion is during Semana Santa, Holy Week. This is the week before Easter when processions take place throughout Andalusia and also in other parts of Spain. It is almost impossible to put this week into words, but it comes down to temporarily feeling like you are in another world. Call it a fairy tale. The streets are full of people who come to watch the processions moving through the narrow streets of the center. There is incense everywhere and you hear the special Semana Santa music with drums and trumpets that touches you to the bone.
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Read more below the photos.
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A procession consists of one or two tronos which can weigh up to 4000 kilos. Sometimes it takes up to 200 bearers to carry such a throne with Jesus or Mary. There are hundreds more walking around nazaranos, penitents along. They usually wear pointed hats where their faces are covered and only their eyes are visible (this has nothing to do with the Ku Klux Klan). They carry large burning candles that leave a trail of candle wax throughout the city. You can also see them at most processions Mantillas. You can recognize these women by their black dress or suit, a high comb (Peineta) in the hair and a black lace Mantilla (head veil).
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Read more below the photos.
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There are more than 40 brotherhoods in Malaga that take part in the processions in the week before Easter. And on Maundy Thursday, since the 18th century, pardon has been given to an (anonymous) prisoner who takes part in the procession of the El Rico brotherhood. Afterwards he/she is free to come and go. Yes, you read that right; a prisoner is released who has not yet fully served his or her sentence. And everyone in Malaga finds this completely acceptable (there is a nice story behind this, by the way).
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To really understand what I mean, you have to go there once. Every time it gives me goosebumps, it moves me and I am carried away by the passion that the Malagueños have for them Semana Santa. And if you're thinking: I'm not religious at all: a small 80% of Andalusians consider themselves Catholic, but only a small 19% of those also consider themselves religious. For many, the Semana Santa something that is so anchored in their tradition that whether or not to believe it sometimes seems of secondary importance.
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Read more below the photo.
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The author of the book The Tribune of the Poor, Mariët Meester, succeeds in describing exactly what I feel during the Semana Santa. Highly recommended to read if you want to understand the mysteries surrounding this tradition.
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You can read more information about this special week on the website from ExperienceMalaga. Or watch this video.
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Read more below the photo.
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Would you like to experience it yourself?
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Once upon a time Semana Santa to experience? That's still possible. In 2024 we will stay during the Semana Santa (this year this week falls from March 24 to 30) in our apartment in the center, but our beach house in the El Palo district is still available for this period! It is just a 20-minute bike or bus ride from the center and a 2-minute walk from the beach. Click here for photos and further information about this wonderful spot near the beach.
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Have a nice week and best wishes for 2024!
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